Poor guy, the red tide made him sick so he was just hanging out on the beach until he felt better again.
As you can tell the surf wasn't ridiculously big which is super good for me! I'm still such a learner. Although I do have to share that on Sunday I purled and after my board smacked my face I ended up with a bloody nose and fat lip. Pretty!! I feel like I have had a collagen injection or something! Oh well, I guess it's just one of those things that happens and I can't say that I'm walking away from surfing any time soon. It's teaching me SO much... there are lessons out there on the water that translate into my life so perfectly... I'm learning how to be patient and wait for the good waves, find balance, rhythm, the ideal position for me in relation to the wave, how to fight through the white-wash, to anticipate the timing correctly, and most importantly to believe I can do it. It's so funny because I'll be out on the water in the morning and whatever the lesson of the day is in the ocean will reappear back at home while I'm working! I'm so grateful for those lessons and the growth it provokes. I'm really growing in how to focus better and find balance. What are you learning? How is it helping you grow? Feel free to share in the comments, it feels so much better for this to be a conversation :)
Time to get back to the working part, have a fabulously beautiful day!
2 comments:
cute new friend! And as I was reading your past couple of blog postings, I see we have another connection besides Hume... Biola. My daughter Erika goes there. She runs for them and just qualified for nationals...you can see her on the Biola athletic page under Erika Perez. Small world!!! Keep up the good work!
awesome post!! so easy to get lost in surfing.
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